Uncomfortable 2015 Seat

[robd1]

I'm seeking knowledge from anybody who has had experience in modifying a heated seat. I have the high seat on my RT and it certainly has plenty of foam. However, after about 100kms I start to feel pretty uncomfortable. When reading articles on seat modification and watching videos it all looks quite easy by just taking the cover off about 3/4 of the way, leaving the front 1/3 attached. A window of about 6 x 4 inches is cut out to a depth of about 1/2 inch just where your tail bone (Ichial tuberosities) are situated and some good memory foam is place in this position and glued in. The cover is then re-stapled. My query is, can anybody tell me where the heating element is situated in the seat? Is it on the top of the foam or in a pocket in the foam and if so at what depth. Is it contained in a sheath that can be removed temporarily or deep enough to still be able to cut the proposed window out without endangering the element? Much oblig[size=2px]ed for any enlightenment.[/size]

[guest2360]

That all sounds extremely complicated and difficult.  Would suggest surgery might be easier. There seems to be lots of different makes of seats in the US for the RT. I would go down that road first.

[robd1]

I've looked at that option but the freight from the US is inhibitive. A friend imported a seat and backrest for his GTL and it was about Aus$1500. He loves the backrest but says the seat is no better than the OEM seat. If I were going to do that I would want to try the seat first. The exercise of putting in the memory foam on a standard seat looks pretty straight forward, it's just knowing where the heating element is and avoiding it. I believe it is a bit like a bed heating element and can be put aside to avoid it. :-\

[k9doc]

I bought my bike used (2011) with a low seat. I bought a used standard seat off ebay (which incidentally came from a BMW dealer in the south of England).

It was a surprise to find when the seat arrived that it had been modified with a gel pad or memory foam insert. This has proved to be much more comfortable than the OE seats on my previous RTs and the heating still works well. In fact it was my intention to replace the low OE seat with a standard height 'Sargent' at a cost of around £350 but no need now.

There are plenty of small enterprises over here who can do this work at a very reasonable cost (probably similar in Oz) and maintain the heating function so it can't be rocket science and probably easily doable with a few DIY skills and tools.
The insert in my seat definitely works well and is probably a lot more convenient than having your Ischial Tuberosities removed.

[robd1]

Thanks k9Doc. I know it's an easy fix but I just don't want to cut my heating off although we have had 4 x42ºC days in a row. I knew that Ichial looked wrong-Ischial, Ischial, I won't forget now.

[k9doc]

Just a thought. Have you considered the Airhawk/sheepskin alternatives. I have found that both work quite well. The sheepskin has to be Merino but you're deffo in the right place for that.

[robd1]

I have an Airhawk and whereas it is much better on a long trip, I feel restricted in any forward or backward movement. The recommendation is to let the air out so that the ITs are on the seat and the sides just aid in supporting the rest of the backside. I still find that I get sore but it is much better. It does raise me up a bit and reduces the effect of the Illium Bar Backs. It's a fine balance. I would like to try the memory foam (about $10 and a bit of time) but want to get all the facts about the whereabouts of the element. I could just remove the staples but would prefer it if somebody knows for sure.

[T6pilot]

I feel your pain, having had 3 BMW seats redone, funny my new RT is the only one that didn't need it done. Watching our local seat maker (Rocky Mayer) build my last 1600 seat was interesting.  Heating element lives below covering separated by what appears to be 3/8 foam, all parts separated  pretty easily,  he then went to work on seat with electric carving knife, reshaping it. I believe he used a foam from Oregon aero for final shaping, reglued heating element, then final layer of special foam. Made it all look easy, still way above my pay grade. Somewhere near you has to be a custom shop for auto/boat seats, I would start their
Good luck

[robd1]

Thanks T6pilot. That was exactly what I was after. I think that it would be quite easy to do but would have loved to have watched your guy do your seat. I've watched many videos with some being quite empirical and others being way more complex with smoothing, reshaping and 3 different foam types. The latter would be a bit beyond me mainly due to not having the materials or knowing the correct "cure" for my particular problem. If shaping the sides too much I could find myself cramped as I am 6'2" and am already on the border of being cramped. I may just have to pay out the $350 Australian and let the expert deal with it. :-\

[T6pilot]

To get a good seat in the US expect to pay $500 plus, what looks simple, really takes some talent to work. It is fun watching the masters form a seat to fit you, afraid what I could do with the electric turkey carver!!!

[robd1]

I finally bit the bullet and did a simple mod. I used some memory foam which I cut to a size of 6 x 4 x1 inches This I cut very easily with an electric carving knife. The staples were removed from the back 3/4 of the seat and the cover pulled forward. Under this was foam which came over the sides of the base of the seat. This was carefully removed as it was lightly glued. When lifted I could see a cleft about 1/2 inch under the foam. Separating this the heating element was separated coming off with the upper thin foam and freeing the main foam base. I used finger pressure to separate the element from the lower foam. I then marked out the area which would be where the pressure points were on my butt using the foam as a template. Using the electric carving knife I cut down to a depth of 1" all the way around the markings and extending this to the one side of the seat having drawn an extension of the template lines. I inserted the carving knife into the rear cut and then angled it forward to cut out the foam. The side piece that was cut out was separated from the main 4 x 6" piece. I then glued the side piece in place with contact glue spray adhesive. I sprayed both the insert piece and the cut out area and waited a couple of minutes until it was tacky. Once I had the side piece correctly aligned I then glued in the piece of memory foam, placed the element and foam layer back. This I sprayed lightly on the edges and pulled it over the base. The cover was then replaced on side at a time and stapled into place.
Problems encountered: If redoing this 1) I would have removed more staples so that less tension was placed on the side of the foam cover which tore when pulled forward. This didn't really affect anything as the tear was glued together and to the base. The cover also fits so well that it also would keep everything in place.  2) I would have cut the memory foam on the drawn line and not just inside to simulate the actual size. If fractionally large it would compress and fit more snug. 3) I only had a large stapler and had difficulty getting into some of the grooves to re-staple. I just have to find a nice guy with a good stapler!
It feels very comfortable but still has to withstand the 200km trial ride.

[Cleverbee]

Er, excuse me, what is 42°C ???

[robd1]

Hi Cleverbee, it is 107.6°F

[k9doc]

Good job robd1. Saved yourself a good few quid (dollars) there.