Lowered Foot Pegs

[Budman]

I have noted in this forum that I liked my Suburban Machinery Drivers Peg Lowering kit. As nice as they are I needed the shifter to be a little lower. I got some information from Jim Baden on another forum and they are great now. To lower your shifter you need only to us a 10mm open end wrench to hold the middle nut and loosen the two end nuts with a 12mm open end wrench. Move the center nut until you have it in the necessary position for your foot. If you cant move the bar enough to fit your foot you can get the extender from SM. Cost for the extender is $29.00 plus shipping.


Nothing can be done about the brake peddle so Im going to check with my dealer and see what a new brake peddle costs and see if I can alter it myself. Its not bad but does take a little getting used to as is.


Big thanks goes out to Jim for his help and wisdom. Im going to purchase one of his maintenance DVDs.


Bud  be[size=78%]    [/size]

[Spencert231]

Big thanks goes out to Jim for his help and wisdom. Im going to purchase one of his maintenance DVDs.


Budman, what DVDs do you refer to?

[Budman]

Go to :


www.jvbproductions.com


He has several to choose from. He is on several sites. Provides good information. I met him on Adventure Rider. He posts a lot in the Road Warriors forum under RT stuff. He also posts in the BMW Luxury Touring forum under RT.


Bud

[Spencert231]

Thanks Budman will check it out. 

[richardbd]

When I first got the LCRT, I wanted to lower the pegs.  Then I wondered three things...


1.  Will the lowering kit(s) fit the LC?
2.  Will the GSAP (quick-shifter) work with lowered pegs?
3.  Given that I keep putting the standard pegs down, is lowering them a good idea?

[Budman]

Yes the pegs lowering will fit the 2014 or 2015. Took me about 40 minutes to install them. The toughest part is that dern spring that you have to fiddle with. Its not impossible just aggravating. They wont affect the quick shifter or the lean angle.


I really dont understand your last question.


Moving the shifter down is pretty simple as well once you know how to do it.


Bud 

[Atdrs]

I just installed the Suburban Machinery peg lowering blocks on my 2015 RTLC and I am enjoying them very much.
Lowering the gear shifter is a breeze as all that I needed was a 10mm and an 8mm open end wrench. Took about 2 minutes to adjust.
The brake pedal will take some more engineering but seems OK with just a little adjustment in my thinking.
Illium handle bar risers just came in the mail Thursday and will soon be added.
I'm 6'6" with a 35 inch inseam so stock is a little more cramped than my previous RTs.
Now. Looking at an aftermarket seat. Probably go straight to the top, in my mind, and get another Russel made.
Love this bike. Seems like a bicycle after 2 years riding a 2008 Goldwing.
Ride safe.

[stelyn]

Hi Atdrs,  welcome to the Forum,  post some photos of the Bike and its modifications when you get a chance  - sounds good so far....

[Spencert231]

I think what richardbd meant when he said in 3. Was he touches his pegs down on bends with the satandard fit, so lowering would be be like grinding the road (pavement in the USA). My advice then richardbd don't do it  :clap:

[richardbd]

I think what richardbd meant when he said in 3. Was he touches his pegs down on bends with the satandard fit, so lowering would be be like grinding the road (pavement in the USA). My advice then richardbd don't do it  :clap:

That was my conclusion - and after five months with the bike now, I've adjusted to the riding position anyway!


^-^ ^-^

[NoVaBob]

I also have the Suburban Mach Foot pegs Lowering Kit -- a huge help.  However, adjusting the shifter as shown below, while it works, does change things.  As you increase the exposed portion of the threaded rod you're changing the activation of the shifter --- you're changing the geometry of the linkage.  Lowering it too much and you won't catch 1st gear.  And the amount of movement to create a shift is different from factory setting.  I'm concerned that adjusting it for the 1.75" lower foot pegs will impact the Auto-Shift feature (which I don't use much for downshifting anyway).

I'm looking for a shift lever that can actually be cammed downward on the actual shifter shaft so the toe is comfortable above and below the lever, but that doesn't require the threaded rod to be changed from factory setting.  There has to be one out there.  The Touratech version only appears to adjust forward and rearward.  Twisted Throttle several, but only one for the GS, not 2014-15 R1200RT.

Also, my BMW Master Mechanic did find a way to lower the brake lever.  He removed the jam-nut, put a washed in there instead and adjusted the screw so there's still 1/2' of play before activation, but is a full 1"+ lower and far more comfortable.  Hope all this helps.

[Budman]

Im not trying to be dense but could you or your mechanic explain in a  little more detail and add a picture or two about the break lever?


Thanks,


Bud 

[NoVaBob]

I'll see if I can even get a photo of the adjusting screw.  All he told me was there's a jam-nut that secures the adjusting screw to the Master Cylinder.  If I heard him correctly, he removed the nut, replaced it with a washer, then had to snug the screw in all the way to get the lower position and still have the 1/2" of play in it before activation.  I'll see what more I can get you.

Still looking for a 2-piece toe shifter lever --- one that has the toe piece pivoting on a screw or pin (before snugging it down) on the actual long shaft, and has the short toe-piece adjustable in an arc on a gear-teeth end of the shaft attached to the engine.  Anyone know of something like this?  I believe it's important with the 2015 QuickShift/ShiftAssist to keep the threaded rod as close to factory setting as possible.  With the lever adjusted 1+" lower for the SM foot pegs .... the distance to shift, especially, 2nd-to-1st is significantly greater.

Any true/actual BMW mechanics out there care to comment on this?

[Zombeezy]

Hi folks!


New to forum


Three weeks old 2015 San Marino Blue RT, still waiting for top box to be painted. Regular stock seat, lowest position.


With 30 inch inseam, my left foot is flat-footed but right foot I can't put all the way down at the same time, so have been looking at how my legs straddle and have to move around the pegs to touch the ground.


I haven't heard anyone else mention it in all the forum searches, but when my legs go off pegs at stop, I am pretty much right at the tip of the seat at the gas tank, and as I put my feet down, I have to either go in front of the pegs or in back of the pegs. Ideally, they would come right down where the pegs currently are.


So, I am looking at foot peg options less for the lowering them, and more for the tiny amount they can move forward. With the Suburban DL3N kit, it says "Net change is 1.45" down,
0.38" forward, total move 1.5".


It's not much, but I'm doing the Iliumworks Bar backs first to give me a little help (handlebars up and back 1-5/8” - hmm, it really doesn't look like much back at all, more up), because it is a cheap fix first and may help slightly. I think my arm lengths (shirt sleeve 32) forces me to lean forward and have my butt forward, thus I am right where my feet coming down want to be at the pegs. After I install the bar backs, I think I want to try foot pegs change.


I've also seen the MFW Vario Footpeg Mount with 360 mounting options, but doesn't seem to be available for the 2014-15 models.


Also looked at the Iliumworks driver sportboards, but it looks to just be more for my legs to have to go around before putting feet down.


Anyway, thought I'd  throw it out there in case I'm overlooking some options (other than probably ending up with a seat replacement option some day).


Thank you!

[stelyn]

Hi Zombeezy, welcome to the Forum.    See if you can borrow a low seat from your Dealers to try out first, this may be a better and more comfortable option for you.    Have you checked out the  `height / seat configurator on the BMW Web Site against the  `size chart' ?.    Enjoy your new Bike...........