BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

I found it much easier to torque up the disc bolts, with the wheel ON the bike.

mbro wrote:I've done some initial looking, looks like the discs should be re-torqued with loctite to 12nm and then 24nm. Is this correct?

For a 2010 RT, the Haynes manual says the front brake disc bolts torque setting is 19Nm.

BMW advises that new bolts are fitted, these bolts are micro-encapsulated with locking compound.



Otherwise, clean up the threads of the bolts and apply a suitable non-permanent thread-locking compound.

Thats the route I went...  Run a tap through each brake rotor mounting hole to clean up the threads, blue loctite and 19Nm, which doesn't seem like that much, but hey, I'm not an engineer.  I also installed new front brake pads, and waiting on the arrival of rears.  I'm going the EBC HH Sintered pad route - cost about 1/3 of BMW branded pads.  Rotors are close to 4.5mm thick still (the stock thickness, 4mm minimum thickness). 

Status update on the winter maintenance list.  All done.  Wheel repaired, front brake discs re-mounted and torqued (with loctite).  New front and rear brake pads installed.  Curious - I made it out for a spin yesterday (in January, in Canada!) and I was getting quite a bit of shudder when applying front brake at highway speeds.  I'm going to put a runout gauge on the front disks - I did on the balancing stand, and they were ~10 thou runout or so - very little, and I wouldn't expect that much shudder.  Could it be because I balanced the wheel (with no tire), then added the tire and balanced the wheel and tire together afterwards?  I'm surprised at how much shudder I was experiencing - certainly more than before I had the wheel straightened and repaired. 


For those new to this thread - front end maintenance that was done:

• Dismount front wheel
• dismount front tire and throw away
• wheel straightened and repaired the lip at a wheel repair shop - nice job they did
• checked wheel runout, it was ~5 thou radial and ~15 thou axial - well within the specs (BMW called for 80 thou or so I think)
• mounted both left and right discs after running a tap through the threads
• checked both discs for runout - ~10 thou or so
• Balanced wheel (with no tire - just tpms)
• mounted new tire
• balanced wheel and tire together
• installed new EBC HH brake pads

Any thought on whats causing the shudder? 

I wouldn't ever suggest, because everybody knows that aftermarket pads are far superior to OEM ones.

RTman10 wrote: I wouldn't ever suggest, because everybody knows that aftermarket pads are far superior to OEM ones.

:eggs:

You took your bike out in January in Canada?  I shudder to think too 


Are you guys having a Chinook? 

Not so much of a chinook, but we did have a decent melt for a few days, dry roads, and it was +8, so hey, why not!  I'm a bit enthusiastic like that (some call me a nut or worse).  But ya, it was good to take a lap around town. 

As my luck would have it, things are warming up here again (yes, its February, and a good melt on in Canada).  When I took my bike out in January (see last post), one thing I noticed was a bit of shimmy at high speed from the front brake (but only when applying the brake).  The rear is fine.  Above about 80km/h, I get some pulsation and vibration when applying the brake.  I thought, well maybe there's some radial runout variance.  Left side shows .005" and right side shows .015" radial runout (measured on the circumference of each disc, with respect to the axle).  I also measured axial runout (left/right variance of the disc from its centreline) - both measured between .010" and 0.015", which I think is acceptable.  I was feeling much more vibration than I thought I should have.  Granted, I didn't go that far yet, and the pads need to bed in good, but I don't think it should have been quite so present. 


Your thoughts?  I checked the caliper bolts on both sides - 22 ft-lbs as per spec, and the tension springs holding the pads in are in the correct orientation.  I believe I've got everything as it should be.  Give me some ideas to look at.  I might be riding to work on Weds or Thurs!  Fingers crossed...

mbro wrote: As my luck would have it, things are warming up here again (yes, its February, and a good melt on in Canada).  When I took my bike out in January (see last post),one thing I noticed was a bit of shimmy at high speed from the front brake (but only when applying the brake).  The rear is fine.  Above about 80km/h, I get some pulsation and vibration when applying the brake.  I thought, well maybe there's some radial runout variance.  Left side shows .005" and right side shows .015" radial runout (measured on the circumference of each disc, with respect to the axle).  I also measured axial runout (left/right variance of the disc from its centreline) - both measured between .010" and 0.015", which I think is acceptable.  I was feeling much more vibration than I thought I should have.  Granted, I didn't go that far yet, and the pads need to bed in good, but I don't think it should have been quite so present. 


Your thoughts?  I checked the caliper bolts on both sides - 22 ft-lbs as per spec, and the tension springs holding the pads in are in the correct orientation.  I believe I've got everything as it should be.  Give me some ideas to look at.  I might be riding to work on Weds or Thurs!  Fingers crossed...

You experience the shudder only when braking?  Does it get better if you brake hard?

timminator wrote: You experience the shudder only when braking?  Does it get better if you brake hard?

Only a few things come to mind.

Did you pull the pads and look for wear or strange wear patterns on the pads.  Are the pads messed up in any way?  Like a chip out of a edge or something?  Did you lube the slides the pads ride on?  You can sand the leading edge a little putting a bevel on each leading edge it may help.  It will also help sliding the caliper with pads in them over the rotor.

How do the pucks in the calipers look?  Do they work smooth? No ridges or built up brake material making a ring around the puck keeping them from working as they should? 

How did the rotors look as far as ridges?  Can you feel grooves in them with your thumb nail?  Is the groove more pronounced in the front edge or rear edge?  Are the pads a perfect match in shape and size?  You can also sand them from the center to the edge, NEVER around and around, and clean them up a bit with 80 grit or so.  I have used a palm sander.

You cleaned everything very liberally with brake cleaner right?  When doing pads I always clean everything as clean as I can make it.  And I use a high temper copper based lube for the slides and such.

If all that is up to snuff you may need to go and bed them in.  That is a process not to be taken lightly and is pretty important. 

BUT only if you are sure you have no other problems.

My own opinion I pay the price for OEM pads.  I have on most bikes I have owned.  I do not like EBC anything.  I refer to it as "vapor ware" as they go quick.  And I am not sure if they are the best match to the OEM rotor either.  Again my own opinion and how I do stuff.

So all I got to through out to you .

Hope you get is squared away and let us know what you find.

It doesn't get better braking hard - I think it seems to get worse.  I did thoroughly clean the calipers with soapy water and a toothbrush, and brake cleaner, inspected the pads, pushed the caliper pistons back into the calipers, and replaced the pads as well.  The old pads wore very evenly, and did not seem warped or damaged.  The caliper pistons also moved very smoothly and did not show any signs of damage.  The rotors have also worn smoothly, are well above their minimum thickness spec.  I didn't put any lubricant on the sliders that the pads rest on, so might take the calipers off, give them another good cleaning, and lubricate those surfaces.  I've used EBC brake pads before with no issues, and have read mostly positive reviews.  It could be that I need to lubricate the surface the pads ride on, and then go bed them in some more.  I did drag the pads a bit at highway speed to heat them up, but I think they need some more aggressive braking than that for proper bedding in.  I don't know what the procedure is described as, specifically, but would be interested in what anyone has read regarding bedding-in procedure.  A good couple of heat cycles and some very firm braking from highway speeds down to ~20km/h a few times followed by a cool-down period is what I've heard previously. 


I'll keep you posted.

Throw the pads away and fit OEM ones before lots of other bits get damaged.  If there is just one thing on a bike you shouldn't try to save a bit of money on its brakes.

Ere, ere.

Once bought some EBC front pads for a 2007 RT, fitted them, they were useless, threw them away.

On this subject, I agree, fit OEM brake pads.