Buy 2010 or 2007 R1200RT?

General discussion of the BMW R1200RT/R1250RT
blastfurnace
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Buy 2010 or 2007 R1200RT?

Post by blastfurnace »


I have been thinking about getting either a 2007 or a 2010 R1200RT for touring with my wife, both day trips and longer trips.  I currently have a Sertao and the only other bike I have even owned is a KLR.  I do a lot of gravel road riding on the Sertao, but as I get older I am less interested in technical off road riding and my wife has no interest in being off road. 
My big questions have to do with the pros and cons of each year.  They are similar except the 2010 has the radio and a corbin seat.  The 2007 has 61,000 miles and the 2010 has 41,000.  There is about $4,000 difference in price of the two.
Also, their are other sport tourers: ST1300, [size=2px]FJ1300 and Concourse.  What sets this bike apart?[/size]
[size=2px]
[/size]
[size=2px]Thanks for entertaining these newbie questions.[/size]
T6pilot
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Re: Buy 2010 or 2007 R1200RT?

Post by T6pilot »

Not sure if 2007 has servo brakes, if it does avoid, repairs are very costly
2010 is a very solid bike
Enjoy the ride
Jim
ds99
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Re: Buy 2010 or 2007 R1200RT?

Post by ds99 »

2007 was the first year of non-servo brakes. 2010 models are "twin cam" engines which are supposed to be better
guest2360

Re: Buy 2010 or 2007 R1200RT?

Post by guest2360 »

Early 2010 bikes were delivered with a defective timing cam.  This could cause them to stall at low revs.  All were recalled for a replacement cam.  Any dealer should be able to tell you if it was done.
gogs01
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Re: Buy 2010 or 2007 R1200RT?

Post by gogs01 »

If they both look good, ride well, have everything working and have full BMW service history, I'd get the 2010 and sell the Corbin to recoup some of the outlay.
But that's just me .....
My 4th R1200RT = 2016 (2017 MY) R1200RT LE
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SurfCity16RT
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Re: Buy 2010 or 2007 R1200RT?

Post by SurfCity16RT »

blastfurnace wrote: I have been thinking about getting either a 2007 or a 2010 R1200RT for touring with my wife, both day trips and longer trips.  I currently have a Sertao and the only other bike I have even owned is a KLR.  I do a lot of gravel road riding on the Sertao, but as I get older I am less interested in technical off road riding and my wife has no interest in being off road. 
My big questions have to do with the pros and cons of each year.  They are similar except the 2010 has the radio and a corbin seat.  The 2007 has 61,000 miles and the 2010 has 41,000.  There is about $4,000 difference in price of the two.
Also, their are other sport tourers: ST1300, [size=2px]FJ1300 and Concourse.  What sets this bike apart?[/size]
[size=2px]
[/size]
[size=2px]Thanks for entertaining these newbie questions.[/size]
If it was me, I would go for anything after 2010 and if you can afford 2016 or newer it would awesome. I had FJR, rode ST, but no Connie yet, ST is top heavy, has an extra gallon of fuel for reserve and that's 7.6 gallons tank combine. The FJR center gravity is just almost perfect with the weight, this made the bike cuts thru crosswind like a knife thru butter. Power wise I preferred FJR, but again it too heavy and small for me. I am 6feet 270.
Test ride all of them and then your choice, any which one is one personal choice otherwise they are all good motorcycles.

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2016 BMW R 1200 RT-11/11/2016
2021 BMW R 1250GSA 04/09/2021
blastfurnace
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Re: Buy 2010 or 2007 R1200RT?

Post by blastfurnace »

I also found a nice 2013, but it has all the bells and whisltes, lower miles (20,000) and higher pricetag ($12,00).  Are all the bells and whistles worth it (especially all the radio/communications stuff?)
gogs01
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Re: Buy 2010 or 2007 R1200RT?

Post by gogs01 »

blastfurnace wrote: I also found a nice 2013, but it has all the bells and whisltes, lower miles (20,000) and higher pricetag ($12,00). Are all the bells and whistles worth it (especially all the radio/communications stuff?)
The 2013 is the same twin cam model as the 2010 bike and, in my experience some of the niggles from 2010 had been cured by 2013, so that would certainly sway me towards the 2013. Bells and whistles are more of a personal choice, and I've always gone for dynamic pack / premium pack etc, but I've never felt a need for a radio on a bike.
Your money, your choice ! ;)
My 4th R1200RT = 2016 (2017 MY) R1200RT LE
blastfurnace
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Re: Buy 2010 or 2007 R1200RT?

Post by blastfurnace »

I don't much care about the radio either.  This bike does not have ASC.  I know it can be added, but I'm not sure what it brings to the party.  It is worth adding on?


Test rode the bike yesterday and it is amazing the difference between it and my Sertao.  So much...more...of reverything.  Power, control, braking, refinement...




gogs01
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Re: Buy 2010 or 2007 R1200RT?

Post by gogs01 »

blastfurnace wrote: I don't much care about the radio either. This bike does not have ASC. I know it can be added, but I'm not sure what it brings to the party. It is worth adding on?
Test rode the bike yesterday and it is amazing the difference between it and my Sertao. So much...more...of reverything. Power, control, braking, refinement...
ASC is one of those safety blanket things - I've only once had it kick in and I don't know if letting the back wheel spin would have been a disaster in that situation. Like ABS though - if it saves you just once, it was worth every penny you paid for it !
I use the cruise control, TPMS, range, temperature, oil level and adjustable screen a lot, ESA and heated grips less so, heated seat rarely and always hope that ASC & ABS are never needed - but I wouldn't want to give up any of these things. Are you sure ASC can be retro-fitted ?
Again, these are personal choices and you may decide you have other needs / wants. Your money, your choice ! ;)
My 4th R1200RT = 2016 (2017 MY) R1200RT LE
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Boxflyer
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Re: Buy 2010 or 2007 R1200RT?

Post by Boxflyer »

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gogs01
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Re: Buy 2010 or 2007 R1200RT?

Post by gogs01 »

Boxflyer wrote: The 2 BIG items that would make the 2010 model more desireable for me are the routine maintenance on the valve adjustments and the final drive unit upgrade.
The twin cam valves (2010-2013 RT) are adjusted by determining the clearance and inserting the proper hemispherical spacer part from BMW. They are very stable and some have reported high miles before needing to actually change the shims. (some as high as 50,000mi)
The standard hex head (2005-2009 RT) valve adjustment with a little locking nut on a screw shaft that must be turned to get the correct clearance, then fiddled with while locking the little nut...which always seems to change the setting you just thought was perfect! Granted, there are no parts to buy/exchange with the valve service, but the hex head series of boxer engines more than likely will need some adjustment at the 6,000mi service interval.
The second model change was with the final drive.
On RT final drives on the hex heads (05-09) the FD "big bearing" is placed in the housing on the flange side of the bevel gears and is not running in the 75W90 gear oil. It's only protection against water intrusion/contamination which leads to it's failure is a small O-ring on the splined shaft and the low friction seals which are part of the bearing itself. I had a "big bearing" failure on my 08 RT and rebuilt the FD myself to replace this bearing...still the same basic weakness in the system.
Starting in 2010
up to present .....
This looks to be correct, but written in 2013, before the engine / gearbox / final drive all changed.
I you want the best R1200RT, buy a 2017 SE with dynamic packl ! ;D
My 4th R1200RT = 2016 (2017 MY) R1200RT LE
blastfurnace
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Re: Buy 2010 or 2007 R1200RT?

Post by blastfurnace »

gogs01 wrote: This looks to be correct, but written in 2013, before the engine / gearbox / final drive all changed.
I you want the best R1200RT, buy a 2017 SE with dynamic packl ! ;D

Can I get a loan from you!
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Boxflyer
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Re: Buy 2010 or 2007 R1200RT?

Post by Boxflyer »

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ca1ic0cat
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Re: Buy 2010 or 2007 R1200RT?

Post by ca1ic0cat »

I've got a 2016 RT and the radio isn't much help if you ride with earplugs, IMHO.  My SENA communicator has FM anyway and works with noise reduction earbuds.  The kickstand is in a funky location and you can pop the bike into 1st trying to get the stand down.  Engine is nice.  Windscreen give good protection.  Like not having to bugger with the final drive like my 2005 GS but the bearing has held up well.  I don't mind the valve adjusters in the older engines as once you know how it's easier than shims. 


Overall the BMW is a solid bike that will look good and run forever with maintenance.  The Japanese bikes generally run a long time but don't hold up as well overall.  But like the other guy said, your money your choice.
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