BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

I have had the potentiometer on the back of the trans replaced twice by the dealer, over a time span of the past 4 years. So the issue has started again, with first 3 gears and neutral. I get various displays like a green neutral when it is actually in gear and if I'm not ready when I let the clutch out, the bike lurches forward, which caused me to fall twice or you put the kickstand down and its switch kills the motor because its still in gear. Conversely I will sometime have neutral with a blacked out indication or the green indicator light blinking on and off. Sometimes I get the blacked out indication when actually in one of the aforementioned gears as I'm going thru the gears.... The dealer tells me I'm out of warranty on the repair. I could replace the expensive part myself but it still has to be programmed electronically to the bike by the dealer. Being retired and approaching 72, I don't relish the thought of shelling out another $400. bucks but falling down isn't much fun either. When I bought this bike new, I was still working and it was my dream bike, I planned on keeping forever. I've been riding for 50 years and raced off road for 30 years. I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this and if it was resolved.

A "Google Search" suggests one of the most common problems seems to be the electrical connection.

Try unplugging the plug/socket, cleaning the contacts & apply something like ACF-50.

"The way the sensor works is that it rotates with the shifter drum and changes output resistance.
If added resistance exists at the connector, it will show wrong gear; if out of range, it goes blank."

Sounds like the BMW dealers have just replaced parts & not looked for the root cause of the problem.

This article seems to confirm the above thoughts, http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/index76 ... eId=418303

Thanks, David. That sounds like a good place to start. I'm also wondering if the Pot can be fouled from within the area it is mounted to? Possibly a leaking seal? The first time they replaced it, they failed to get it programmed to the bike, due to an incompatible replacement part. (Apparently there have been multiple changes to this unit and not all configurations work on different models) So they put the original part back on and with the seasonal changes it was the following year before they replaced it with a part that worked. I will try cleaning electrical connection before proceeding.

An update on this issue; I checked the potentiometer and it appears the last unit is the updated model with a pigtail, moving the connection to a higher location on the bike. This would virtually eliminate the chance of moisture or road spray to foul the connection. I have sprayed these areas with moisture displacement and given that I avoid riding in the rain, like the plague and am very careful to wash the bike with just a garden hose, then drying with compressed air and a soft towel, I doubt my road riding or wash habits would have contributed to the unit's demise. Contacting my dealer got me a rather snarky answer with their offer to sell me a new unit at full retail cost, to replace the defective one (They installed at my expense) for another labor charge. This would probably cost in the neighborhood of $350-$400 bucks. As a retired Aircraft Mechanic, I could gladly do the work myself but the unit needs to be programmed to the bike by their computer software. So my option is tuck my tail and grovel at the feet of the all-powerful BMW to get it fixed, then sell it. At 72 years of age and on a fixed income, I neither can afford this expensive repair on a regular basis, nor have the tolerance for their corporate apathy.  My four wheeled experience has migrated me to Honda and Toyota, whose warranty and dealer service sets the bar, so I see a similar conclusion to my relationship with the Bavarian marque...

[email protected] wrote: An update on this issue; I checked the potentiometer and it appears the last unit is the updated model with a pigtail, moving the connection to a higher location on the bike. This would virtually eliminate the chance of moisture or road spray to foul the connection. I have sprayed these areas with moisture displacement and given that I avoid riding in the rain, like the plague and am very careful to wash the bike with just a garden hose, then drying with compressed air and a soft towel, I doubt my road riding or wash habits would have contributed to the unit's demise. Contacting my dealer got me a rather snarky answer with their offer to sell me a new unit at full retail cost, to replace the defective one (They installed at my expense) for another labor charge. This would probably cost in the neighborhood of $350-$400 bucks. As a retired Aircraft Mechanic, I could gladly do the work myself but the unit needs to be programmed to the bike by their computer software. So my option is tuck my tail and grovel at the feet of the all-powerful BMW to get it fixed, then sell it. At 72 years of age and on a fixed income, I neither can afford this expensive repair on a regular basis, nor have the tolerance for their corporate apathy.  My four wheeled experience has migrated me to Honda and Toyota, whose warranty and dealer service sets the bar, so I see a similar conclusion to my relationship with the Bavarian marque...

I would not use compressed air anywhere near the wheel bearings, brakes, final drive, gages or engine/trans.    OK for body panels though. 


8) 

I contacted BMW corporate about this issue and did receive a call from one of their representatives. She listened politely, then told me basically there was little chance of any future repairs being covered by BMW but they do need an "Official eval" by the dealership at my expense, to be considered for coverage under any future recalls. So, I'm back to where I began; with a malfunctioning bike after two expensive trips to the dealer and my only choice is to pay them again to fix it and hope it works. Whats that saying about the definition of insanity?