Cam head left cam tensioner replacement issue

[columrick]

2010 1200RT. Getting that startup clacking sound, definitely from the left side, enough so I need to replace that tensioner. Upon unscrewing the left side tensioner from the engine case, I found I can't angle it in any way to remove it. The front suspension pivot, just above where the tensioner is located, appears to be in the way. I spent some time fiddling without success. Anyone provide me with some tech assistance, I'd appreciate it. The tensioner has a 15mm head.

[Our Gee]

There is a procedure in the Haynes Manual which describes removal of the Tensioners. (Engine in The Frame) Also there are some videos on Utube, unfortunately not for a Camhead although the general procedure will be the same, ie displacement of the Left Throttle Body which I presume you will have done ?.
Do you intend replacement with a standard BMW Tensioner or an "After Market" upgraded item ?.

[columrick]

Nevermind. I'm a clown. Finished the other seasonal maintenance issues, and dove back into the tensioner. All I needed was a slim screwdriver to give a bit more leverage to get out the original tensioner. The spring was noticeably shorter than the spring of the new tensioner. Engine starts clack free, and idle is quieter.

[Our Gee]

It will be interesting to know what mileage your bike has covered and did you fit an "after market" tensioner or the BMW one. If it is the BMW item what is the part number. (Is it different to the one you have replaced ?) Also I was under the impression that the the Twin Cam engine has an up-dated Tensioner which was supposed to eliminate the Cold Start racket. Having said that my own 2011 Twin Cam can be noisy for the first few minutes especially if ridden straight off. I now let it idle for a couple of minutes and that seems to do the trick.

[bicyclenut]

For my 2010 RT I purchased and installed a replacement from EuroMotoelectrics that was supposed to be an updated cam tensioner.

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/3072.htm

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/3072.htm

[Our Gee]

That's strange. The part number for the Tensioner shown on your link (Euromotoelectrics} is the same BMW Part number as shown on the Max BMW Parts Fiche for a 2009 / 2013 RT. which will have been the Tensioner as fitted to your 2010 bike from new. So if this is so it would seem that you have simply replaced the original item with another the same ?. Did the replacement part look exactly the same as the one you removed ?. Baring in mind that Columrick did notice a difference in the Spring length.

[bicyclenut]

I forget if the spring was longer, but I understood it to be an upgrade from OEM with a stronger spring.

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/produ ... ner629.htm
"The original left hand tensioner has a very weak spring and has no check valve so it loses hydraulic pressure when you turn the engine off. The upgrade is identified by the smaller 15mm head (the normal tensioner is 17mm) and has an internal check valve that retains oil and appropriate pressure."