BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

Greetings Everyone,

After experiencing clutch wear issues late this riding season, I have decided to replace the clutch on my own in an attempt to save a considerable amount of cash. I may also attempt the fuel strip while the bike disassembled.

I feel confident that this job is within my abilities and have begun to obtain the parts and tools needed for the repairs.

At this point the plan is to replace the Clutch Cover, Clutch Plate, Pressure Plate, Associated Bolts, and the Slave Cylinder. Because there is no indication that the rear crankshaft seal is leaking, I was hoping to leave the original Clutch Housing in place. Of course this would change if there was an issue found with this seal upon disassembly. The plan is to replace all of the accessible seals in the transmission while it is out.

Am hoping that any Member who has done this work may have some recommendations or advice for me to consider.

Thank you in advance for your assistance!

Sorry, can't offer any help myself with this one but a "Google" search throws up links to threads on other forums and YouTube videos.

I find searching "R1200" gives more options such as GS models on which owners seem to do more of their own maintenance.

Thanks David!

I have viewed a few videos and have gained a few useful bits of information. Was hoping too to gather anything valuable from any member(s) that may have done this replacement.

Cheers

There is a thread on this forum "DIY Clutch Change" not a lot of info. but someone has done it. Use the "Search" box to find it.

I did the clutch on my 2010 RT in September 2022. Bike had 95,300 miles on it, now has 99,800 and all good. I bought the kit from Euromotoelectrics out of Denver, CO. Kit included the Pressure Ring, Clutch Plate, Clutch Spring, Pressure Plate, and Bolts. I did buy a slave cylinder as well after I had issues with clutch not releasing after job was completed but that was due to a bleeding issue and just needed a bit of wearing in. I pretty much had the new clutch in a replaced over a 3 day weekend but the entire job was about 2 weeks due to some welding I had done to frame, a few days to get a slave and I did some rewiring while I had the bike so much apart. I was able to do most on my own but for some of it you really need another person or two to help remove/replace rear frame and some other steps its helpful to have others to help.

I opted to not do the seals unless I saw them leaking, I heard opinions on both sides and I realize it will be a lot of work to go back in, but working in automotive we rarely see leaking at these seals even at high mileage so why fix something not broken. I think the only tool I needed that I didn't already have was the clutch centering tool, but if you are doing the seals you will probably need some additional specialty tools. It was not a highly technical job, I am not a technician but a service manager in auto so I'd say mechanically inclined and knowledgeable. It is a time consuming job, a lot to take apart to get to the clutch. I purchased a bunch of parts bags that I wrote on with marker, took lots of photos and videos of locations of items and made notes on bags about any details I might need later. My situation was a bit more complicated as I have a lot of add on wiring for lights and other power leads - made for some extra work as these were added over time with minimal disassembly of bike. I did have a shop manual, I forget if Hayes or Clymer, it helps but lots of flipping around to get info as it doesn't just show the procedures for the clutch as steps in order but you go from chapter to chapter to work on various sub assemblies of bike.

I did watch a number of videos and read all I could but were a few surprises, just do it methodically and label parts, take photos and make notes! This will help when you go to put it all back together trying to recall what went where or how. I'm sure I saved $$$$ although it did take time and I hope this one lasts another 90K+ or I am riding a new bike by the time it needs another, although I am sure I could do it again much faster.

Let me know if you need any other info. I see you are just up north of me in WI.

Congratulations Sir, you are a brave Man.

Thank you so much for taking the time to write such a comprehensive post and sending along the images. When looking at them it seems quite intimidating, but I am ready for the challenge. Just a few more things to get ready in the garage, and a few more tools and parts to be obtained ahead of time. Am hoping to get the clutch parts through The Beemer Boneyard and have purchased quite a few maintenance items from them previously. Have not heard of the company in Colorado that you bought your parts from and will be sure to give them a look. Will also be buying a couple of specialty tools from BMW where unavoidable.

Winter is finally settling in here in northern Wisconsin, so my first priority will be to finish insulation in the garage and set up some proper lighting. Was very lucky to find an old but very useable lift table for $70.00. It does not have a hydraulic lift mechanism, but rather a screw type set up that is operated by a large drill. Ordered a wheel clamp from Harbor Freight as the wheel chock from my trailer is too big.

I too will not be replacing the seals that are not leaking and not readily accessible. It is safe to say that my clutch wore out prematurely for a number of reasons (+/- 40k miles) to include being hard on it when loading it into my toy hauler camper trailer. So, if you look at it that way, the seals should not have as much wear as the clutch based upon mileage.

A repair book from Clymer Manuals will help to guide me along the way, and your comment about skipping around the chapters is accurate. Am sure that it will be worth the $40.00 investment.

Was in Chicago recently to get a person to/from the airport and was ready to come home afterwards. Lived a good portion of my life in Chicago proper and the suburbs but have been in the Northwoods for over 30 years now. Quite the different lifestyle and am not sure a return to the city is in our immediate plans.

Best regards, Corker

FWIW, I would definitely change the seals while it is apart whether they leak or not.

Should they start leaking it would mean doing the whole job again plus new clutch - this based on my experience with K1100RS back in the day.

Ed, thanks for your thoughts! The more that I think about it, one cannot go wrong with replacing the seals. Sounds like smart preventive maintenance.